We got told

Written: Wednesday, March 25th - Seal Beach, CA

While having our post surf rinse off at the outdoor showers this little kid started eyeing up Geoff's board. He was like "Woah, Dude, what happened to your board"

Now I suppose that I should jump in here with a little background information. Geoff bought the board from a swap meet the guy was asking for $20 or best offer, we got it for $15. This fact being hard to forget given that the previous owner wrote $20 obo in permanent black magic marker on the top of the board. Now I know that this makes us look terribly cool and all, but we also found out that the board is actually something special - a "Gordon & Smith" from the early 80s. All I know is that it too hard for a beginner to ride and looks like it went through hell and back again. Anyways, back to the story.

So, He was like "Woah, Dude, what happened to your board" and Geoff said that we bought it this way. Then the kid looked at us like a couple of newbs and said, "well, you should at least tape it up with duct tape so it won't catch water." Then he turned and walked off leaving us feeling a little stupid. Normally I'd be offended by getting condescending advice from a 7yr old. However, given the fact that we'd just spent the day getting tossed around like little rag dolls in the surf - I was thankful for the advice.

The waves were bigger today, and this only exaggerated all little things I'm already doing wrong. Perhaps it is time for a real lesson. Right now all that I know is that there is so much water up my nose that it drips out uncontrollably when I lean my head forward making this journal entry a soggy one.